Manchester: Capital of England’s north

Chris Potter
On the Go

Manchester has been synonymous with industry for some 300 years and, like other industrial cities, has reinvented itself after decades of economic doldrums. The result is an exciting destination for business and pleasure. (Check it out at www.VisitBritain.ca.)

GMEX from Windmill Street. Photo courtesy of GMEX:  Manchester’s edgy new architecture juxtaposes with diligently restored historic buildings like the imposing Town Hall, the elegant Midland Hotel, and the ornate John Rylands Library. (I recommend the Midland. It’s beautifully appointed, service is good, and it’s where Mr. Rolls and Mr. Royce first met. It’s also opposite Manchester Central, the combination conference and exhibition space.)

When meetings are done, the town’s nightlife spans the spectrum of cozy jazz bars to major rock concerts.

Victorian industry put Manchester on the map and today contributes to tourism with a variety of attractions such as gentle cruises on colourful narrow-boats along the network of canals once used to transport goods.

Among its claims to fame Manchester counts Granada Studios, where the long- running soap Coronation Street is filmed, and Manchester United where a young David Beckham got his start. A tour of the Man-U Stadium and Museum is a must for any soccer fan (www.manutd.com). They’re located in The Quays, Greater Manchester’s revitalized waterfront, a 15-minute trolley ride from the town centre. Here, too, is the Imperial War Museum North, and the fabulous Lowry complex, named for the city’s best-known artist, with theatres, galleries, restaurants, and bars. Find out more from www.thequays.org.uk.

“We don’t all live in terraced houses,” said Marketing Manchester’s CEO Andrew Stokes at a recent conference. He was referring to Coronation Street. “Nor do we all make 100,000 pounds a week,” he grinned, getting a dig at Beckham.

Manchester, Stokes points out, is the gateway to England’s multi-faceted North Country.

“Liverpool is this year’s European Capital of Culture. Its famous docks are a UNESCO Heritage Site. And we’re not far from the Lake District where Miss Potter was filmed.” (The 2007 movie starred Renée Zellweger as Beatrix Potter, who left a legacy of more than 4,000 acres to Britain’s National Trust.) Another gem Stokes enjoys sharing: HM The Queen is the Duke of Lancaster, an area to which Greater Manchester belongs. “This,” he suggests, “makes the Duke of Edinburgh a rather reluctant Duchess.”

The well-connected Manchester Airport, third largest in the UK, has contributed to the city’s success as a major European conference centre. But if London is your gateway, treat yourself to a train trip for the onward journey. I purchased a First Class British Rail Flexipass (buy it before you leave — they’re only available outside the UK) and travelled to Manchester from London with Virgin Trains (www.britishrail. com). I was impressed. The fast trip (two hours, 13 minutes) included a meal and refreshments delivered to my seat. Service is excellent on weekdays. I returned to London on a Saturday anticipating the same, but service disappears at weekends.

By the way, when you visit Manchester’s Victorian buildings, look for bees. Sometimes they’re obvious (decorating floor tiles) sometimes subtle (woven into textiles). They represent the proud “hive of industry” of 19th-century Manchester. The industry has changed, but the people are proud again. It shows. CP